Please note: This story was originally published in 2018. The businesses featured below are committed to operating responsibly through the pandemic which might mean limited in-store access, reduced hours, or curb-side pick-up only. Check in with each business in advance of your visit to avoid disappointment.
Not so very long ago, as the dark chill of winter gave way to the longer, warmer days of mid-March, Heidi and I ventured into the wilderness of Frontenac County searching for signs of spring. During that story, we explored Frontenac Provincial Park and Gould Lake Conservation Area, along with several other intriguing locations throughout the region.
For the next chapter in our series of adventures #inFrontenac we wanted to return to the area for a unique outdoor experience. Heidi created a detailed itinerary that would bring us back to sunny South Frontenac, where we would embark an all-new excursion amid the emerald beauty of South Eastern Ontario.
Think of it like a sequel only bigger, better and far greener than the first one.
Not only would we be revisiting these iconic outdoor spaces during the glorious heat midsummer - but we would also encounter more than a few hidden gems along the way! From hiking to kayaking, swimming, cycling, and more - join Heidi and I as we continue to sip, snack and sightsee our way through the teeming wilds of Frontenac County.
An Enchanting Hike at Frontenac Provincial Park
To kick-off, our much-anticipated return to Frontenac Provincial Park, Heidi and I selected the Doe Lake Trail which is a casual two to three-hour hike on an absolutely gorgeous three-kilometre loop. Heidi and I are rebels without a cause, so we hiked the trail in reverse - which as you’ll see offered some brilliant angles that we may not have caught if we had started at the beginning.
As we began to amble our way along the trail and entered a stunning forested area, I was immediately transported back to my childhood summers spent at our family cottage(s) in Frontenac.
When I was a young boy, I would spend many summers at my grandparent’s cottage on Eagle Lake, which is just North of Parham, Ontario. Every day, my sister and I would walk with my grandmother (AKA Grandie) along the cottage road beneath the gold-emerald glow of the forest canopy above.
My Grandie called it “Nature’s Cathedral,” because of how the leaves above were reminiscent of stained glass. The way the sun would cast a vibrant spectrum of light and colour upon the forest floor. The lesson was that - regardless of what you may believe - the spirit of the world lives in every forest, lake, meadow and wetland.
And if you know how to look, listen and feel for it - you needn’t look very far.
Not long into our hike, we discovered a broad variety of unique features, birds, wildlife and ecosystems as we explored the majestic Doe Lake Trail. One image I will never forget is the way the brilliant sunlight spilled and cascaded down the pathways along the trail - like a marvellous waterfall of pure radiance.
After traversing a pristine forested portion of the trail, we found ourselves standing upon a rocky outcropping that overlooked an ancient beaver pond (below). Long dead tree trunks reached out of the flooded ground like blackened matchsticks surrounded by a lush marsh forged by the busy rodents and time.
Mesmerizing Lakeside Views
As we found ourselves facing the captivating sight of Doe Lake, we had to stop again and appreciate the raw natural beauty of Frontenac’s vivid landscapes. Beneath a brilliant blue sky, the lake seemed to beckon to us as it basked in the warm morning light.
As we gazed out at the lake, there was an overpowering sense of relief. Suddenly, the only thing that seemed to matter was the sound of the wind whispering through the leaves, the distant songs of birds, and the blissful knowledge that we had nowhere else to be.
Throughout our hike, we were halted in our tracks, again and again as we followed the Doe Lake Trail in absolute awe.
This is a good time for me to offer an appreciative nod to The Friends of Frontenac and the generous support they receive from the community, volunteers and other benefactors. Without their dedicated care and passion for maintaining these trails - experiences like this would not be possible. The Friends of Frontenac also host training programs and events, including guided Spring Birding, Historical walks and the ever popular: Frontenac Challenge.
Petit Dejeuner By The Lake
After wrapping up our hike, we sat at one of the picnic tables near the Park Office, overlooking South Otter Lake. I made a quick dash back to the car and retrieved a few goodies from the cooler.
Earlier that morning we had stopped at the Sydenham Foodland to stock up on a few snacks before hitting the trail. For a lighter, yet still energising breakfast, we each had a cup of yogurt, mixed berries and granola. We also tried a small tray of these made in-store, Mexican inspired mini rolls stuffed with cream cheese, chives, and red peppers. They were simple, yet tasty and really hit the spot.
Checking Out Frontenac Outfitters
Before heading to our next destination, we decided to check out Frontenac Outfitters which is located just three minutes South of the park entrance. Throughout our travels this year, we’ve fallen in love with Kayaking and Heidi wanted to stop in as we passed through.
The shop is an impressive space with a wide selection of canoes, kayaks and Stand up paddleboards (SUP) catering to all skill levels from each respective watersport. There is also an extensive inventory of flotation devices, vests, compasses, paddles and other essential gear for the avid paddler.
The kayaks that are available for rent at Frontenac Outfitters are tandem or single sea and day touring kayaks. Heidi and I prefer the comfort and ease of recreational models - as we’re still rather new to kayaking. We also find it easier to get in and out of recreational models, which are fantastic for casual or novice kayaking.
Perhaps one day after more practice and completing a training course or two - We’d work our way to more advanced kayaking. Regardless, it was great to visit Frontenac Outfitters and get a look at their awesome location, situated only minutes from some of Ontario’s best canoeing and kayaking spots.
A Breathtaking Paddle on Gould Lake
Next up, we took a short drive South for some kayaking upon the shimmering waters of Gould Lake Conservation Area. This 20 square kilometre slide of wilderness is a great year-round day-use park with plenty of trails and loops to explore in addition to great fishing, canoeing as well as winter activities like snowshoeing and cross-country skiing.
Canoes, Kayaks and Pedal Boats are available for rent throughout the summer months, making this an ideal multi-use area for family trips, or a quick retreat from the city. We were eager to get out on the water, so Heidi and I headed straight to the rental office and secured ourselves a pair of recreational kayaks.
For the next three hours, we paddled North along the Eastern shore of Gould Lake from the conservation area’s beach. As we followed the water’s edge we drifted alongside a dazzling and wild shoreline adorned with immense rocky outcroppings and cliffsides; the rocky formations hugging the lake in an ardent prehistoric embrace.
To paddle on a beautiful lake such as this, beneath a bright blue sky, and barely a whisper of wind - brings an elevated sensation of peace and a sensation of calm unlikely to be found anywhere else.
Before the lake opened up, we crossed to the Western shoreline, following a small chain of islands and inlets along the way. Close to shore, the water was incredibly clear, offering stunning glimpses at the rocks below. As we paddled between the islands we started to make our way South, and back toward the beach we launched from.
All in all, our jaunt around Gould Lake was an amazing experience. Kayaking is quickly becoming a personal favourite outdoor activity and we look forward to exploring more of the region in the future.
For now, it was time to get back to the beach for a swim and a snack before heading back to Sydenham and getting checked into our lodgings! I can’t tell you how awesome it was to jump into that lake and cool off after a few hours of kayaking.
Relaxing in Style at The Linden Tree
Located in Sydenham and just 30 minutes North of Kingston is The Linden Tree Guest House - a private lakeside B&B overlooking Eel Bay. The guest house is detached from the main house and comes complete with a full kitchen, master bedroom with a Queen-sized bed, guest room with two single beds, a three piece bathroom and an outdoor seating area on the deck.
The guest house is quite lovely and reminiscent of time spent at the family cottage. It is fully furnished, and more than suitable for a family getaway or trip to the lake with friends. This quaint B&B is in an ideal location for travellers who are exploring nearby hiking trails at either Frontenac Provincial Park or other areas - and is very close to the Cataraqui Trail.
The property also has a beautiful lakefront seating area and dock - which is a short hike down a loose gravel pathway to the water’s edge. Fair warning though, once you get down there you likely won’t want to leave again.
The lakeside deck is a picturesque area to sit by the lake and spend an entire afternoon devouring a favourite book, taking a swim or even going for a paddle on one of The Linden Tree’s single-seat kayaks. If you’re up for a bike ride, they also have a pair of adult-sized mountain bikes you can borrow.
There is also a BBQ and a fire pit down by the lake, however, there was an open-air burn ban in effect during the time of our visit - so we decided to make the short trip back to Sydenham and let the experts take care of dinner.
All Signs Point To Delicious
During our last visit to Sydenham, Heidi and I became acquainted with The Point Restaurant. Located at the corner of George and Wheatley Street this quaint little eatery owned by Chef Carolyn Teal has become legendary for their culinary creations and gorgeous presentations.
To get things started, we had the aptly named Spindle O’ Rings. This glorious spire of crispy golden onion rings reached for the sky and achieved flavourful new heights with it’s zesty chipotle aioli which added a nice mix of sweet heat to these mammoth sized rings of crunchy battered bliss. This rather precious appetizer is best described as the one Spindle O’ Rings to rule them all.
When it comes to brilliantly plated entrees and mains, The Point is where you’ll find some of the most Instagrammable dishes you’ll ever set eyes on. Each order is put together and presented to the customer in such a way that clearly defines the vision and dedication that Carolyn and her staff apply to their work.
For her main course, Heidi had The Point Burger which came with sauteed mushrooms, onions, cheddar cheese, peppercorn mayo and crispy hot peppers. To spice things up a notch, Heidi also added bacon. Each burger that The Point serves is made daily from fresh local beef. This monumental burger was huge with a generous slab of bacon lazily hanging out of it, the way a happy dog sits there panting with its tongue lolling to one side.
Or maybe that was just me panting and drooling at the sight of Heidi’s beautiful bounty of beef and french fries.
Carolyn’s special that day was a delicious Veal Parmesan which I was unable to resist. This mouthwatering mound of pasta and zesty tomato sauce was topped with a generous slab of breaded, tender veal with a thick layer of melted mozzarella. To add colour and flavour, it was garnished with some fresh basil - and tasted even better than it looked.
Once we had finished our mains, Carolyn told us about our dessert options, as well as her selection of milkshakes. We decided to dive right in - and requested a piece of chocolate cake and what turned out to be quite the huge piece of raspberry-chocolate cheesecake. We must have been feeling a bit sassy after a day of physical activity, and also requested a pair of milkshakes.
Heidi’s was an orange creamsicle milkshake that tasted even better than the real thing, while I kept it old school and chose chocolate. But this wasn’t just any run-of-the-mill chocolate milkshake. Oh no. The Point uses chocolate ganache - which results in a true life-changing milkshake that tasting is believing.
A Vivid Sunset Over Sydenham Lake
Somehow, despite being absolutely stuffed, we managed to make the short journey from the restaurant to Sydenham Point Park for a walk down to the public beach. The sun was settling into the horizon in a brilliant swath of fiery oranges and deep blues which played across the sky like life imitating art. It was a good time to witness the visual spectacle while reflecting on the day’s adventures.
Breakfast with a view on Day Two
We awoke the next day after a much needed night’s rest and enjoyed a small continental breakfast on the guest house’s deck. From our vantage point, we could see the lake below, offering a peaceful atmosphere to enjoy a cup of coffee and greet the day. Once we finished our quick breakfast we hopped on the pair of mountain bikes and headed out for a short ride.
A Scenic Morning Bike Ride
Stretching for over one hundred kilometres between Strathcona and Smiths Falls, The Cataraqui Trail is a year-round multi-use trail that was once a rail line built in the 1800’s. This scenic path is popular with hikers, cyclists and naturalists and even allows horseback riding. For our trip, Heidi and I would be taking a short bike ride on a portion of the trail that crosses Eel Bay to Boyce Island - just east of Sydenham.
Neither of us had been on a bicycle in years, but after a slightly wobbly start, I was once again reacquainted with the concept. It came back to me like a reflex. It’s true what they say, “as easy as riding a bike.” In fact, Heidi left me in her dust for the first leg of our ride which was conveniently downhill, from The Linden Tree to the nearby entry point for the trail.
The trail itself is truly captivating and was like riding through a gorgeous tunnel of golden sunshine and vibrant green leaves. After crossing an old train bridge to Boyce Island, we had to stop to appreciate the view and take some photos. Here in Frontenac, there are over 5000 lakes so there is never a shortage of awe-inspiring lakeside views to behold.
Lunch at The Mill Street Cafe
After our morning bike ride, we had definitely burned several calories - and were once again ready for some food. First, we stopped in at The Mill Street Cafe to secure some scrumptious local eats. Owned and operated by Desert Lake Gardens this little eatery is a popular stop for both locals and visitors.
To kick things off, Heidi had a zesty chicken queso soup, while I delved into the crisp and fresh Asian ‘zoodle’ salad which blended zucchini “noodles”, shredded carrots, purple cabbage and other fresh veggies in a delightful roasted sesame oil dressing.
For the main event, I had a grilled Cuban sandwich - while Heidi enjoyed a wonderful club sandwich, which paired nicely with a pint of ice cold beer from The Wolfe Island Spring Brewery. In fact, most, if not all of the components of our lunch were from local producers - and the vegetables and greens were grown by none other than Patchwork Gardens in Battersea Ontario.
I Scream, You Scream…
After a tasty lunch, we crossed the street to make a dessert stop at Trousdale’s General Store for an Ice Cream Cone. Not only is this Canada’s oldest still-operating General Store, but it’s also a popular spot to score a delicious ice cream cone on a hot summer’s day.
After making a careful choice from their abundant selection of ice cream flavours from Kawartha Dairy & Tracey’s Ice Cream Heidi selected a double scoop of salted caramel cashew toffee on a waffle cone. Heidi was halfway through her ice cream before remembering to snap some pictures for this blog. My ice cream, on the other hand, did not survive long enough for photos. The delicious portion of Moose Tracks was gone in a flash.
The Spirit of Summer Lives #inFrontenac!
This brings our latest story to a close. We had an absolutely amazing and eventful two days of summer fun amid the pristine beauty of South Frontenac Township. The only difficult thing was packing it up and going home. Whether you’re in the mood for a lazy lakeside escape, or an action-packed weekend of biking, paddling or hiking your way through the wilds, there are endless opportunities to make the most of your time in Frontenac.
As always, we’ve hooked you up with a custom Google Map that pinpoints all the stops we made during this trip, along with a few bonus locations as well. Give it a download, try it out, or create your own custom adventure.
Until next time, thanks for reading!
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