Telling the Entire Story
Story by Aric McBay
Photos by Suzy Lamont
“We don’t inherit the land from our parents,” reads the label on Sonset Farm flour, “we borrow it from our children.”
That’s the ethic at the heart of Sonset Farm, an organic family farm just west of Inverary, in South Frontenac.
“When people come here, we encourage them to bring their kids, or their grandkids, and go out to collect the eggs,” says farmer Andrea Cumpson. “To feel that warm egg in their hand. We want them to experience what the land has to give.”
Along with her family, Andrea raises dairy cows, pastured pigs and chickens, grass-fed beef, and grows spelt on their diversified family farm.
“More and more people are coming and having respect – almost reverence – for quality food and the land,” Andrea observes. “I think people are really coming back to that, compared with even ten years ago. It’s amazing the people who want to see farming viable, alive, and well.”
Andrea farms at Sonset with her husband Orrie (who grew up on the picturesque farm). Their son Charlie was also raised on the farm, and married Hailey; they recently welcomed baby Nathan, now the fourth generation at Sonset.
A major crop is spelt, an ancient grain that is well-suited to organic cultivation. Sonset farmers grind the spelt into flour on their farm and also roll it into flakes (which can be used just like oat flakes in bread, cereal, or baked goods). Sonset Farm sells their own fresh spelt pasta, which is made in Kingston by Pasta Genova, using Sonset spelt flour and organic eggs from Reinink Family Farms.
That spelt pasta – along with meats and other products – can be bought at their on-farm store. “Our farm store is based on the honor system,” Andrea explains. “We want our community to feel part of this farm.”
“We only sell what we raise and grow,” adds Andrea. “I think that’s really important, so we can tell the entire story.”
The ecological growing methods at Sonset are a big part of that story, and for Andrea that means attention and deep care for the land. “The animals and the land can teach us a lot,” she says. “The interconnection of all living things, I’m in awe over it every day.”
Development pressure is a big problem for species at risk, says Andrea, causing loss of farmland and wildlife habitat. But organic farming can help protect them: “It feels like our farm is a refuge for some of these species, like bobolinks and barn swallows. There are so many of them! It just feels alive.”
The farm was one of the first in the area to become organic. “It was challenging at the beginning,” says Andrea. “Now there is so much out there about regenerative agriculture and organic agriculture. But when we first started it was really difficult to find that information.”
But with support from other farmers in Frontenac County and Ontario, they learned. Starting in the 1980s, the Cumpson family took ecological agriculture courses and shared knowledge through kitchen table meetings.
“There was such a supportive network of farmers, sharing their struggles and the good things that were happening,” recounts Andrea. “Everyone wanted to see everyone else succeed.”
They are proud members of the National Farmers Union. Andrea says: “A strong farming community is so important for learning and for our farm’s success.”
Farming in Frontenac County was a decision Andrea has been very happy about, and she hopes that her family will keep farming here for generations to come.
“When you’re farming with nature, you see the vibrancy and health of the land and your animals,” says Andrea. “Especially here, in South Frontenac, with the lakes and streams, the rocks and the trees, and the biodiversity.”
“It’s why we can succeed in farming organically.”
Where to find Sonset Farm products:
- Sonset Farm’s organic milk and dairy products (including butter, cheese, and sour cream) can be bought through the Organic Meadow brand at many grocery stores.
- In addition to the farm store, other farm products can be purchased at independent local grocery stores including Glenburnie Grocery, Local Family Farms (Verona), Sigrid's Natural Foods, Tara Natural Foods, Limestone Organic Creamery and Wendy's County Market.
- Sonset ingredients are featured restaurants including Furnace Falls Farm in Lyndhurst and The Everly in Kingston.
- For larger meat orders, it’s best to call ahead or order via phone (613-353-2260) or email sonsetfarm@gmail.com.
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